Srinagar

Srinagar is the heart of Kashmir and the natural place to begin your journey. The city curves around Dal Lake, where carved houseboats float and shikaras glide past floating vegetable markets at first light. Spend your days in the terraced Mughal gardens of Nishat, Shalimar and Chashme Shahi, climb to Shankaracharya Temple for a view over the whole valley, and pay your respects at the white marble Hazratbal shrine. In the Old City you will find timber mosques, spice-scented lanes and artisans working pashmina and papier mache. Warm, walkable and unforgettable, Srinagar sets the tone for everything ahead.

Things to do

• Take a shikara ride across Dal Lake and visit the floating market
• Spend a night on a traditional Dal Lake or Nigeen Lake houseboat
• Stroll the terraced Mughal gardens: Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh and Chashme Shahi
• Climb to Shankaracharya Temple for a panoramic view of the city
• Visit the Hazratbal shrine on the shore of Dal Lake
• Explore the Old City lanes, Jamia Masjid and local craft workshops
• Shop for pashmina shawls, saffron, walnut wood carving and dry fruits

Best time to visit: April to October is the most comfortable window. Spring, especially late March to mid April, adds tulips and blossom, summer stays cool while the rest of India bakes, and autumn turns the chinar trees gold. Winter is chilly with occasional snow and a quieter, atmospheric charm if you do not mind the cold.

How to reach: Srinagar International Airport is well connected to Delhi, Mumbai and other cities, and sits about 12 to 15 km from the city centre and Dal Lake. By road, Srinagar is reached from Jammu on NH44 via the Banihal tunnel, a scenic all-day drive. Happy Jacks can meet you at the airport and take you straight to your houseboat or hotel.